Filigree Or Etruscan Or Both ?

Long before Czechoslovakian or Bohemian vintage costume jewellery was popular or understood, it was recognized by its brass ‘filigree’ metalwork.

As time has passed, we now know that this brass filigree so admired is actually not filigree at all.  It is pressed or more correctly, stamped on a giant press out of very thin sheets of brass.

Filigree (sometimes called filigram or even filigrane) is actually a very light and delicate type of jewellery made by twisting very fine wires together. 

When curled as well as twisted, often with a grain or tiny ball of metal on top of the coil, it can be termed ‘etruscan’ in design, as in the top of this  silver Victorian double hatpin shown below.

Traditionally in what is termed ‘fine’ jewellery, the wires would be made from gold or silver.  The form is often very fine and almost looks like a very intricate panel of delicate antique lace.

The artisans of India as well as the Far East have created some exquisite examples of filigree jewellery.  The creation of filigree is extremely labour intensive.

Costume jewellery has always sought to emulate fine jewellery and so we see examples of filigree in vintage costume jewellery also. 

Another type of twisted wire used to make costume jewellery was made in the Bohemian area of Silesia.  Very little is known about Silesian Wirework yet by searching for this term, you will find many fine examples of this metal mesh made into fabulous costume jewellery. 

The art of twisting wires together to make jewellery is long established in past centuries.  It is an art which is probably still carried on today.

Timeline – Austro-Hungarian, Bohemian, Czechoslovakian or Czech ?

The history of this troubled area is a difficult puzzle to unravel, but I will do my best.  If you are to try to figure out when your (possibly Czech or Bohemian) jewellery was made, you need to understand the timeline which follows.

Prior to the formation of Czechoslovakia following the end of the second world war, the majority of lands in that region fell under the rule of the Austro-Hungarian Empire (1867-1918) owned and run by the mightly Habsburg Dynasty.

Within the Austro-Hungarian Empire at that time were Bohemia, Silesia, Moravia, Slovakia, Carpathia and Ruthenia.

Slovakia, before 1918, was part of the Kingdom of Hungary, along with Carpathia and Ruthenia.

What is termed the ‘First Republic of Czechoslovakia’ was formed at the end of World War I in 1918.  In this form, Czechoslovakia continued until 1938.  So any vintage costume jewellery which is marked ‘czechoslovakia’ or ‘czecho-slovakia’ or even ‘tschechoslovakia’ were all made sometime between 1918 and 1938.

Vintage costume jewellery coming out of that area was rarely signed.  And when they did sign it, it was usually on the most unobtrusive place you could imagine.

I have found signatures under the barrel part of the typically ‘trombone’ clasp.  I have also seen them stamped into the tiny jump ring between the end of a necklace and the spring ring clasp.  They simply did not think that these ‘trinkets’ were worth signing – they would be amazed at the interest shown in their work today.

Nazi Germany took over or annexed Sudetenland  in 1938. (Sudetenland is the German name for the western parts of Czechoslovakia specifically the border areas of Bohemia, Moravia and those parts of Silesia formerly associated with Bohemia).

The Germans held Sudetenland until their defeat in 1945.   The Nazi storm-troopers evicted the peoples of the Sudetenland and marched them further east, with only the personal items they could manage.   Many of these helpless civilians perished in the Nazi death camps, including the talented and hardworking Neiger Brothers from Gablonz.

There was also a Protectorate of Bohemia & Moravia (1939-1945) as well as a Slovak Republic which ran concurrently to the Protectorate of Moravia & Bohemia.

At the end of World War II in 1945, began the Third Republic of Czechoslavakia (CSR).   This lasted only until 1948 when the country was declared a ‘people’s democracy’ (without a name change).

In 1960 the country was changed to ‘The Czechoslovak Socialist Republic (CSSR).  This lasted until 1989.

1990-1992 saw the country being termed ‘Czech & Slovak Federal Republic (CSFR).

After dissolution in 1993 what remained was the Czech Republic and Slovakia.

Looking at a map of the area is certainly helpful when considering all these crown lands and areas which fall under other monarchies.

If you are trying to ID a piece of VCJ (vintage costume jewellery) which you suspect may be from this area, contact me and I will try to help.

German Women Icons In The Art Deco Era

When delving into the Art Deco era which is now so ultra popular, it bears thinking about the women behind the Nazi leaders.  Not all of it makes for pleasant reading.

The official organization for matters to do with women during the latter part of the Art Deco period, was called the “NS Frauenwarte”.

This organization was created to promote the high value of  traditional clothes and lifestyle for women.  The dirndl skirt and top outfit as seen below, is still worn in rural parts of Austria as well as Germany.

Meanwhile, the wives of the leaders of the Nazi regime made all their own fashion decisions (which certainly were far from traditional).  They freely indulged  in their own brand of fashion.

Magda Goebbels was honorary leader of the “Fashion Office”.  She was something of an icon amongst ordinary people,  simply because she produced so many children.  But more important than that, she was also a divorcee who had become the Reich Propaganda Ministers ‘model’ wife.

One of her husbands roles in the Third Reich was to make sure that the glamorous film industry worked stayed within the guidelines as laid down by Third Reich.

Frau Goebbels disliked the stereotypical ‘Gretchen’ style of the traditional housewife in peasant clothes – which effectively made her a prisoner in her own home.  She wanted to be an example to other German women; to show them that they too could be beautiful, intelligent and chic.  But her behaviour more or less confined her to home.

Eva Braun, Hitler’s mistress, was more accommodating and was seen posing for cameras on the ‘Obersaltzberg’ in a dirndl skirt.

It was well known that unofficially, Braun ordered clothes from Paris.

She even took her SS bodyguard on secret shopping trips to Florence, with the sole intention of on acquiring yet more Salvatore Ferragamo shoes.

Art Deco & Nazi Germany

The link between Nazi Germany and the Art Deco period (which is so popular these days), has long made me uncomfortable. 

First I learned about the Neiger Brothers of Gablonz, Bohemia and their assassination at the hands of the Nazi’s.  These brothers were glass artisans from Bohemia, only just enjoying the fruits of their labour when killed by the Nazi war machine in Auschwitz.

It is interesting to read how the two – the ‘Third Reich’ and the global Art Deco style movement interacted.  The text which follows owes its origins to the narrative provided by Ilonka Wenk in the hardback reference book “Art Deco Schmuck” by Christianne Weber in German.

The book is a revelation to me and one wonders, if the general population knew of the background of Art Deco and the casualties inflicted by the Third Reich, would they be quite so keen to embrace everything Art Deco?  

With the North Americans, there would be an unequivocal ‘Yes!’.  With other perhaps more thoughtful Europeans there may at the very least be a huge question mark.   

But when there is a quick buck to be made in hard times, who can ignore a sale purely on the grounds of moral ethics?  I suspect there are very few indeed.

In the ‘Roaring Twenties’ lesbianism was embraced as ‘avant-garde’, during the 1930’s it was increasingly frowned upon following the play ‘Girls In Uniform’ where the heroin commits suicide after an unrequited infatuation with another female in uniform.

But many more women would soon be seen in uniform following the rise of Hitler in 1933, particularly the ‘BDM’ (the League of German Girls), who served in the Reich Works Corporation.  They carried out duties such as menial medical orderlies as well as lowly positions as tram conductors.

I suspect that the creation  (in 1933) of the German Fashion Office (Meutsches Modeamt) whose remit was to make all women’s’ clothing conform to the ethnic Nazi ideology, was doomed to failure from the very start.

The German Fashion Office was ordered to release propaganda of all kinds to ensure that only ‘pure blooded’ German fashion and accessories were made in accordance with  nationalist folklore which  should be accepted by all true Germans.  

They were also instructed by the Third Reich to ensure that they promoted fashion manufacture in order to keep up with international trends. 

This is surely a double whammy ordered by  the German Fashion Office (Meutsches Modeamt) – neither of which they could possibly deliver or enforce.

Elton & David’s Wedding Rings

Does anyone really care that today Sir Elton John (age 58) and his male partner of more than 12 years David Furnish (43), sealed their union today under the new civil partnership ceremony in the same place that Prince Charles & Camilla married in April?

I just want to see the jewellery.  The matching wedding rings and Sir Elton’s brooch were the stars of the day as far as I am concerned.   

We kind of expected the rings to be dazzling and outrageous and we were not disappointed.

Unusually, both dressed for the ceremony in traditional black morning suits rather than their usual colourful attire, the only flamboyant gesture was the diamond brooch Sir Elton wore on the lapel of his jacket.

The ceremony lasted about 40 minutes and was sealed with a kiss.

Sir Elton’s mother and step-father, Sheila & Fred were witnesses as were David Furnish’s parents Gladys & Jack, who flew to London from their home in Canada.  Celebrations continued at the couples mansion in nearby Windsor.

Congratulations to the happy couple!

Wal Mart Button Buys Could Make You Money On Ebay

It is not often that something you could have bought in Wal Mart can end up making you money on ebay.

Vintage buttons can be big sellers on ebay and may make you some extra money to help cope with Black Friday blues.  Searching yard sales and garage sales can net you big money if you know what to look for.

Bakelite was made mostly in buttons, very little was made into vintage costume jewellery. Carved glass, like those shown above and below are tiny works of art worth grabbing at your next yard sale.

Buttons are much more than just a way to close clothes.  Sometimes they are tiny works of art, especially when you have a look through grans button box. I especially love this Bohemian Czech glass button in the shape of a fly.

Older people tend to cut off buttons from a discarded garment and keep them in a ‘button box’.  The button above is an old rhinestone button from Bohemia and was found on a flea market treasure hunt.  Buckles are also highly sought after, especially in the Art Deco style and made from mother of pearl or bakelite.

The history behind buttons – and the type of materials used – is truly fascinating.  It is worth remembering that until the 1880’s all buttons were cut and shaped by human hand, no matter what the material.  Antique and vintage buttons are often overlooked and yet can be worth money.

Glass buttons on top of metal (usually brass) shanks, were made in a part of Bohemia called the Iser Mountains – since the 1700’s.  The industrious and innovative Bohemians started making lamp worked glass buttons during the1830’s  (some sources would say even earlier).

With little or no costume jewellery available; for the masses, buttons were often the nearest thing to costume jewellery that most people could afford during the 1800’s. Below is a cut steel button made in England around 1800.

It was not until the late 1820’s when the skill of joining the brass shank to the glass/composition top was perfected, that button production became a significant contributor to the economy of Bohemia.

My sources say that the manufacturer Josef Scheibler developed glass (properly called composition as it contained more than just glass), in the 1820’s.  This specific composition allowed the metal and glass mix to bond well without the worry of the glass cracking off the metal base, once it cooled.

Documents tells us that the Jackel company was the first manufacturer in Gablonz to market this type of button on a large scale, but that it was not until 1825. These buttons below are called ‘Dorset Buttons’ being made in Dorset in SW England and are highly collected today.

The button industry exploded around 1860 when fashions insisted that buttons were an important part of a garments style and demand increased significantly.  But still this was just before modern plastics were invented, so the likes of wood (as seen in the half an Austrian hat button in the image below right) and mother of pearl or shell (as shown in the middle of the image below) were popult.

With this expansion, production of buttons in this area was concentrated in three main places – Wiesenthal, Gablonz and Morchenstern.  But still the mainstay of buttons were natural materials.  These buttons below are from Austria and were made by hand from the horn of the Red Deer which is native to the dense forests in Bohemia and Austria.

With demand still increasing, huge technical changes were implemented during the 1870’s.  Buttons soon appeared with loop shanks and metal back plates allowing a more secure bond between metal and glass.

From around 1870 press moulded buttons could be made without the requirement for extra cutting and polishing because the because of a general improvement in the machinery used, and more exact moulds were available.  Buttons were often ‘fire polished’ in the same way as beads.

Up until this time (1870) the majority of glass buttons made were black. After this time fashion demanded the same type of button but in  other colours of glass.  This stimulated the industry to provide a wider range of colourful glass buttons.

Fashion caused a very fickle and inconsistent trade, the demand for different types of buttons was rarely constant.  There were periods when demand was consistently high, (during 1865-1895) and at this time four new factories producing buttons were built.

The Bohemian Chameleon – Dragon’s Breath aka Jelly Opal aka Mexican Opal

It seems that the Bohemian creation of Dragon’s Breath art-glass stones are causing just as much confusion as their Saphiret and Saphirine stones did – and still do.  The image shown above this paragraph is the same brooch as shown below this paragraph – Dragon’s Breath is a master chameleon and colour changer.

The Bohemian costume jewellery makers, (today usually known as Czech or Czechoslovakian), were way ahead of their time and experimented and created many unusual types of art-glass.

In many cases with Bohemian art-glass, the exact recipe has been lost in the mists of time and cannot be replicated.  This is probably true in the case of Dragon’s Breath as it is true of Saphiret.

Having been searching my reference books on vintage costume jewellery for some time, (even those still in the packing boxes),  it seems that nobody really can say much for sure about these stones apart from the fact that they were produced in Czechoslovakia.

About five years ago on a weekend trip to Nuremburg in Germany, my dearest husband indulged me (as he always did) and planned early morning visits to four different flea markets.

We set off sleepy but early and arrived with the dealers at the first one in Nuremburg, and it was here I spotted a ratty tatty old package of old brown paper and string with what looked like oval glass pale tangerine cabochons falling out.

I paid my two euros (then about two dollars fifty) and stashed them in my bag with all the other treasures.  It was not until we got back to the hotel room that my husband translated the writing on the package for me. But still I did not realize the treasure we had discovered.

The stamp on what was left of the brown paper was the old style where each letter or number is slotted into a hand held stamp which is then pressed into an ink pad and the stamp used on paper or cardboard.

I kept this treasure stashed away unopened for two years moving from country to country with my beloved, without even unpacking or realizing what I had. 

Then I started seeing these gorgeous pale stones set in silver, yet with zingy undertones, appearing on the net.  One day it all fell into place and I realized I already had a stash of these unset stones. As you see from the photographs the collection just grew and grew.  There is much more but as yet they remain unpacked after the last move.

This is such an unusual stone.  As you see, when a photograph is taken from a straight down looking into the top the stone (with the older stones at least), you see a clear pale amber/tangerine.  

But when you change the angle, wham – you are treated to a captive spectacle similar to the Northern Lights only in your own vintage costume jewellery.  It is the gossamer thin neon purple veil which captivates me the most.

There is a huge amount of mis-information on the web about this stone.  Just to be clear – it is manmade glass.  I know it is made with the inclusion of a metal of some kind, but so far, I have been unable to find out which metal and in which form it is added to the melt.  The ring above this paragraph is the same as that shown below – just to show you the colour changing properties of this special Bohemian art glass.

The Bohemian manufacturers named them with what to them must have been wishful thinking, calling them ‘Mexican Opals’. That is known for sure as it appears on the packaging. 

Since there are genuine gemstone Mexican Opals, it is perhaps a good idea that this amazing colour changing stone is called something else – hence Dragon’s Breath has become what seems to be the most popular nickname.

If you are lucky enough to see any reasonably priced, and they don’t actually scream at you bright orange and red/blue/purple, (and they are not covered on the back with reflective foil),  then you may well have stumbled upon a genuine piece of Dragon’s Breath jewellery.  

If it is set in silver metal it could well date to the turn of the century, around 1900.  From my experience, at this time Dragon’s Breath stones were mostly set into silver.

To be clear – these are not gemstones despite the wishful naming of them, but to me at least, they far outrank the common Mexican Opal in terms of subtle fire, spark and mesmerising veils of changing colour.  The only opal which comes close for me is the black opal.

Looking around the web you will find some mid century (c1940) North American vintage costume jewellery makers who used what I believe to be the modern version of Dragon’s Breath in their designs.  They are usually ‘high-end’ makers as these stones were never cheap to produce or to buy.

Some purists may insist on still calling them Mexican Opal as did their Bohemian makers, but they have since acquired several other popular nicknames including Jelly Opal and what is the most popular; Dragon’s Breath.  

So if you are going out Dragon hunting at the next yard sale or flea market at the weekend – or even checking them out
online – be aware of all these different names used for this amazing Bohemian art-glass stone.

At the end of the debate, no matter what you care to call it,
these delicious Czech art-glass stones are the classic case of Bohemian Chameleon and are highly sought after by collectors worldwide.

Wallis Simpson Jewels & The Material Girl

The jewels belonging Wallis Simpson were auctioned this week.  They were given to her by the man who should one day have been King of England, but he gave up that right to be with his love – the American Mrs. Wallis Simpson.

There is speculation that the anonymous buyer of these items is none other than the self proclaimed “Material Girl” Madonna, who is currently directing a film on the subject of the royal love affair.

It certainly would show perfect timing as advance publicity for which Madonna has become known over the years.

The jewels were purchased anonymously when Wallis Simpson died in 1986.

The jewels made more than twelve million dollars (about eight million pounds sterling) at auction this week (2010). There were 20 individual lots but it was the sparkling and slinky Cartier onyx and diamond panther bracelet which drew the largest bid – making more than five million dollars alone.

The Cartier Panther was perfection itself and reminded me in its sinuous slinky way of my own meagre Ciner panther vintage costume jewellery.

Touchingly; many of the pieces bore engravings of intimate inscriptions causing David Bennett of Sotheby’s auction house to say that the items were more than ‘just jewels’.

He claimed they are a piece of history and testament to their love.
There was outrage and the English monarchy was rocked to its very foundation when in 1936 Edward gave up his right to the throne to marry the then Mrs Simpson.

On offer this time (November 2010) was 20 items that had belonged to either Wallis or Edward Windsor.  They were both enthusiastic when it came to jewellery.  During their courtship prior to marriage, several items were commissioned personal items from Cartier as well as from other manufacturers, during their married life in the Bahamas.

One of the major stars of the show, the already mentioned panther, was designed by Jeanne Toussaint for Cartier in 1952. The other star piece was the large flamingo perched upon one jewelled leg, which was also designed by Toussaint for Cartier in 1952.  The flamingo brooch was bought in 1940 and fetched  almost three million dollars alone.

The stunning Cartier diamond charm bracelet set with nine gem filled Latin crosses held great significance to the couple.  Each cross commemorated a significant event in the couples’ life together – one of them representing the attempted assassination on the King.

Could this whole thing have been orchestrated by the “Material Girl” herself ?

 

Michelle Obama Collects Vintage Costume Jewellery Brooches

Michelle Obama is known to love vintage costume jewellery.  In particular, she seems to favour big brooches and very big necklaces.  This can only be good news!

She has her own unique way of wearing them, sometimes in groups of up to three at a time. As times are hard for many vintage costume jewellery sellers, the personal choice of the American First Lady is sure to give sales a much needed boost.

For months I have been seeing pictures of Michelle Obama with outrageously large brooches and sometimes two or three huge ones all worn together.  Whilst it is not the traditional way of wearing them, she seems to have made them into her own style and personal fashion statement.

It can be said that this first lady is no follower of fashion.  Instead, she is creating her own style using vintage jewels of the past and putting a modern spin on them.

Many of her brooches could be called ‘statement’ pieces.  I have never seen an image of her wearing a small brooch.  The vivid green one you see in the images is in extraordinarily good condition considering it is made of papier-mâché some time in the 1960’s.

The First Lady seems to really like the big floral brooches, the bigger and the brighter the better.  When considering that she really does have the pick of jewellery to wear, it is quite something to realize that she loves vintage brooches and wears them in

the way she sees fit.   She is certainly an individualist and that is rare, especially amongst politicians wives.

Michelle Obama does seem to have the uncanny knack of making a vintage brooch into a brooch of a very new style – and one all of her own.

Another rare way of wearing vintage brooches is to clip them on to the neckline of a simple dress to give it an instantly individual style.

Michelle Obama is her own person and has a style completely her own, despite being married to the man who is arguably the most powerful man on earth.

Made To Foil Theft – Eisenberg Vintage Jewellery

Originally a women’s clothing manufacturer who started in 1914, Eisenberg started to make costume jewellery to decorate the clothes on show in their windows.

Then something strange happened.  The jewellery was stolen!  Time after time the jewels would disappear. These jewels were obviously what the customers wanted, so Eisenberg tooled up to make their very own line of costume jewellery.

They became very well known for their use of Swarovski crystals as well as their superior craftsmanship with fantastic attention to detail.

At their peak in the 1930-1940 period, the company created replicas of famous jewellery of the 1700’s.  This line of costume jewellery was so good that it was authentic in every degree, including the special type of metal which looked like pot metal or pewter.

Some Eisenberg is marked but from 1952 – 1970 there was no mark at all.  Marks that were used include the stamp “Eisenberg Original” (about 1935-1945), “Eisenberg” and “Eisenberg Ice” were used from around 1945 to 1950.

Just to confuse the issue, pieces made of silver were made from 1943–1948 and were marked “Eisenberg Sterling”.

When hunting out Eisenberg jewellery, look for medallion type brooches and clips, some were made in the form of ballerinas or mermaids.

Animals were also popular in the form of birds, butterflies, horses and zebras.  But some brooches almost told a short story in itself, like the brooch of Puss from Puss in Boots.  Eisenberg created these for the Eaves Costume Company.

The collectors favourites of all the Eisenberg items are probably the sterling silver pieces which are studded with a type of quartz called citrine.  During the middle of the 1940’s Eisenberg also made some 14 ct gold as well as turquoise pieces made by artisans in Mexico.

There are also collectors of Eisenberg enamel items from the 1970’s and one to look out for amid the enamelled brooches of yellow sunflowers and water lilies is the 18kt gold brooches and earrings in the Artists Series.  Of course, these are now highly sought after by collectors worldwide.